Eating Well on the TMB
One of the great pleasures of the TMB is the food. You're crossing three countries with distinct culinary traditions, and even at 2,000m altitude, the quality can be surprisingly good.
Refuge Half-Board
Most refuges offer demi-pension (half-board): dinner + breakfast + a bed. This is almost always the best value and simplest option.
What to Expect
- Dinner: Typically a three-course meal served family-style at a set time (usually 7pm). Soup, a main course (pasta, tartiflette, polenta, stew), and dessert. Wine or beer available for purchase.
- Breakfast: Continental style — bread, jam, butter, coffee/tea. Some Italian refuges add cold cuts and cheese.
- Cost: €50-80 per person for demi-pension
Tips
- Arrive by 4-5pm to secure a good spot and enjoy the afternoon at the refuge
- Vegetarian options are usually available if you mention it at check-in
- The wine at altitude hits differently — pace yourself
Lunch on the Trail
Most hikers carry lunch from one of these sources:
Refuge Packed Lunches
Many refuges offer a panier repas (packed lunch) for €8-12. Usually a sandwich, piece of fruit, chocolate bar, and small drink. Order the night before.
Self-Assembled
Stock up at valley shops in Chamonix, Courmayeur, or Champex-Lac:
- Baguette + hard cheese + salami = the classic TMB lunch
- Add dried fruit, nuts, and a chocolate bar
- Carry an extra litre of water for lunch stops
Trail-Side Stops
Several locations have buvettes (refreshment stands) or small restaurants:
- La Flégère (France): Coffee and crêpes with a view
- Rifugio Bonatti terrace (Italy): Espresso and cake
- Champex-Lac (Switzerland): Lakeside restaurants
Country-by-Country Highlights
France (Stages 1-4)
- Tartiflette, fondue, raclette at refuge dinners
- Excellent bread and pastries in Les Houches and Les Contamines
- Beaufort cheese — buy a wedge at any fromagerie
Italy (Stages 5-6)
- Handmade pasta, polenta, local wines
- Courmayeur has the best food town on the entire TMB — allow a rest day here
- Gelato at any bar in Courmayeur is mandatory
Switzerland (Stages 7-10)
- Rösti, dried meats, Swiss chocolate
- The most expensive food section — budget accordingly
- Champex-Lac has a great lakeside restaurant
Hydration
- Tap water is safe to drink everywhere on the TMB
- Mountain streams above settlements are generally safe (use purification if unsure)
- Carry 1-2 litres; refill at refuges, fountains, and streams
- Electrolyte tablets are worth carrying for hot days
Budget
| Meal | Cost Range |
|---|---|
| ------ | ----------- |
| Refuge demi-pension | €50-80 |
| Packed lunch | €8-15 |
| Self-assembled lunch | €5-8 |
| Restaurant meal (valley town) | €15-30 |
| Coffee/beer at refuge | €3-6 |
Daily food budget: €60-100 depending on your style.
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