The Classic 11-Day Itinerary
This is the traditional way to hike the TMB — anti-clockwise, starting from Les Houches, averaging about 16km and 800-1,000m of elevation gain per day. It's achievable for fit beginners and allows time to enjoy each stage without rushing.
The 20% Rule
Whatever time estimate you see for a stage, add 20%. Trail guides and signs are calibrated for steady, experienced hikers. Your actual time will include photo stops, water breaks, wrong turns, and the inevitable "let me just sit here and stare at this view for 10 minutes."
Stage-by-Stage Overview
Day 1: Les Houches → Les Contamines (16km, +900m/-700m, 6h)
A gentle start through forests and alpine meadows. The trail is well-marked and shaded. Stop at the church in Les Contamines — it's beautiful.
Day 2: Les Contamines → Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (15km, +1,400m/-200m, 7h)
The first big climbing day. Steady ascent to the Col du Bonhomme (2,329m) then the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,433m). The refuge has spectacular sunset views.
Day 3: Croix du Bonhomme → Les Chapieux/Les Mottets (14km, +300m/-1,100m, 5h)
A short day — mostly downhill to the Vallée des Glaciers. Use the extra time to rest. Tomorrow is big.
Day 4: Les Mottets → Rifugio Elisabetta (12km, +900m/-300m, 5h)
Cross the Col de la Seigne (2,516m) — the border into Italy. The views open up dramatically. Elisabetta is a wonderful Italian refuge with handmade pasta.
Day 5: Elisabetta → Rifugio Bonatti (17km, +700m/-1,000m, 7h)
Through the Val Veny and up to the iconic Rifugio Bonatti. The terrace view of the Grandes Jorasses is the single best vista on the TMB.
Day 6: Bonatti → Courmayeur (12km, +200m/-900m, 4h)
A short descent into Courmayeur. Take a rest day here — excellent restaurants, gelato, and the opportunity to do laundry and resupply.
Day 7: Rest Day in Courmayeur
Explore the town, eat Italian food, rest your legs. This rest day is strategically placed at the halfway point.
Day 8: Courmayeur → Rifugio Elena/Grand Col Ferret (18km, +1,300m/-500m, 8h)
The longest climbing day. Ascend through the Italian Val Ferret to the Grand Col Ferret (2,537m), crossing into Switzerland. The descent into La Fouly is stunning.
Day 9: La Fouly → Champex-Lac (15km, +500m/-600m, 5h)
A relatively gentle day through the Swiss Val Ferret. Champex-Lac is a charming village with a lake — swim if the weather allows.
Day 10: Champex-Lac → Trient via Fenêtre d'Arpette (15km, +1,200m/-1,300m, 8h)
The toughest day if you take the Fenêtre d'Arpette variant (highly recommended). Wild, exposed, and breathtaking. The standard Bovine route is easier but less dramatic.
Day 11: Trient → Les Houches via Tré-le-Champ (20km, +800m/-900m, 7h)
The final day. Cross the Col de Balme (2,204m) for a last panoramic view of Mont Blanc, then descend to Chamonix or continue to Les Houches to complete the loop.
Build Your Own Itinerary
This is just one way to do it. Some hikers compress the route into 7-8 days. Others stretch it to 14 with extra rest days and variant detours.
Use our interactive planner to build a custom itinerary that matches your pace, preferences, and available days.
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